結婚式 – A wedding

I experienced my first wedding in Japan this weekend. Weddings are big business in Japan, and after going to this wedding I can see why. Wow. In Nagoya, apparently weddings are even a bigger deal. I have several wedding halls in my neighborhood. The wedding I went to though was in Tokyo.

I met my friend Kentaro in a summer University program in France a few years ago. Yes, I am far removed from University, but our companies sent us to this program, and who can turn down a summer studying in France? We had a great time together and with the rest of the J-Crew – various Japanese, Japanese Americans, and Americans who know Japanese. We certainly have stayed in touch and I was able to visit him when he lived in Hong Kong. That too was a wonderful time and he introduced to a Hong Kong native who showed me around because she had some days off.

Ken invited me to his wedding and I was honored to attend. Weddings in Japan are much more formal in terms of invitation than in the US, and you are never expected to bring a guest. It is you and you only, so you hope you know somewhere there. Fortunately, I did know someone besides Ken or else it would have been VERY lonely.

Typical Japanese weddings have a registration period, then the ceremony, then the reception, followed by the nijikai (second party). The wedding and reception have obligatory business invitees, so the nijikai is where the rest of the folks get to meet up with the bride and groom. I have been to a nijikai before and had a good time.

Of course it was very hot because it was summer time in Japan. I was afraid I was running a little bit late, so I started sweating even more in my black suit. As I was waiting after registration, I was sweating like a pig!

When I arrived, there is an area where you register, and I handed over my wedding gift. The wedding gift is always money in a special envelope, done just right. I was staying with friends and one of them helped me prepare the envelope. The bills are supposed to be brand new but I didn’t have a chance to make it to the bank. Sorry Ken and Mayumi! After I handed over my envelope, I received a smaller envelope. I pocketed it did not open it. Later when I opened it I discovered travel money, and that made my gift seem pretty insignificant.

I met my friend Uchi at the registration – thankfully he saw me immediately. However, since I was the only foreigner at the wedding it probably wasn’t that difficult. I stuck to him like glue. We were herded up to the top floor to be able to walk into the wedding hall.

I should describe the building. The exterior is very gothic and is used only for wedding ceremonies. Inside too kept to the what I’ll call gothic-ight motif with suits of armor, a few swords, and a bit of a Disneyesque sense of decoration.

Wedding hall exterior

We walked down the stairs into the chapel and were greeted by at least a cello, maybe a string quartet. I was too busy taking it all in. Our ushers were dressed in robes with crosses on the front. They carried candles as they escorted us to our pews. In the front of the church was stained glass with images of Christ. Hmmmm. The hall chapel was dimly lit. Also in the front was a pipe organ and an alter. Looking around I noticed multiple cameras mounted at various locations. A DVD surely would be available.

The alter and stained glass

Acolyte / chorus member

Wedding guests

Bells rang and the lights dimmed even more. A trumpeter and a trombone player emerged at the front of the hall and along with the organ flawlessly played a piece of music to introduce the groom. Ken walked up very regally to his spot where he waited for his bride to be. The live music started again and Mayumi, in a white dress with a very long train, was escorted to Ken by her father. Together they walked to the front of the chapel to meet the officiant, who was a silvered hair foreigner.

He welcomed us to, “This Christian wedding” with a voice that, when I imitated him, prompted my American work colleague to say today, “So Sean Connery was the priest?” I’m not sure if there was really any official Christian anything in the wedding, I think it was just someone playing a role. I have been approached to perform weddings in Japan. His Japanese was understandable and clear, but his cadence just felt a little strange. Maybe it is a patriarchal sort of way of speaking.

The wedding roughly followed the format of a typical Western protestant wedding. Sorry Bob and Annie, but there wasn’t any element of an orthodox wedding (although, typical of me, I did drop something when I had a role in the reception). There were hymns that were sung, prayers that were prayed, and vows that were exchanged.

A wide angle shot of the alter

Ken and Mayumi at the alter

Some of the musicians at the wedding

Together at the alter

There was also fantastic music performed at various points. Songs were chosen for their melody I think. As I said, the music was flawless. The acolytes turned out to be the soloists and chorus I believe. These were no average people off the street singing a song. These were trained performers.

The bride and groom were introduced as husband and wife and then walked down the aisle into a shower of flower petals. They then doubled back and got ready to pose for pictures with their families. The guest gathered in the vestibule to prepare for another “flower shower” that I think replaces the throwing of rice. They walked through the canopy of petals (silk and not really very exciting) and exited to some special place.

Mayumi and Ken, Husband and Wife

The first flower shower

The guests headed down to the reception hall. It is tradition in Japanese weddings to give the guests a gift as well. Sitting at each chair was a Tiffany & Co. bag. Oh my. I’ve never said no to Tiffany. The guests were seated and then the bride and groom arrived. There was an MC maintaining the flow of the events. Like any wedding reception, Ken and Mayumi had no time to eat. There was a speech by Ken’s boss, a speech by Mayumi’s boss, a speech by Mayumi’s teacher, and a speech by the person that introduced them, the 仲人 (nakoudo). Of course there was a cake cutting ceremony as well. The parents circulated, making their rounds to each table. We also saw the slide show of Ken, Mayumi, and Ken and Mayumi. Also, Mayumi had to change clothes in the middle of the ceremony of course.

Table setting

Uchi at the wedding

The reception hall

Uchi and I at the reception

Photographing the cake ceremony

Part of the reception was for Ken and Mayumi to circulate the tables and each person was to give them a rose that represented something and make a small speech. That was my role – to represent the table. Ken asked me to make a small speech so I worked with Tomo and my translator to write a small speech. I found out that I was going to be the LAST speech. Oh darn. My speech was in Japanese as well which completely stressed me out. Being last just allowed me to get more nervous.

As the speeches started, I was shocked by how brief they were. I had prepared a little longer speech and now the cards and roses were flashing by. Maybe though the last person is supposed to speak longer? As they approached I whispered to Ken, “Do you want me to do the whole thing?” “Yes,” he said. So I had no choice. I started reading in Japanese into a microphone. Whose voice was that anyway? I didn’t sound like me. Instead of concentrating on what I was saying, I started noticing how I was sounding. I stopped getting nervous speaking in public a long time ago, and here I was like a nervous 5th grader. I almost got done and then I froze. What was next? I made it through the final sentence of my speech and then I was done. Except I wasn’t. I was still supposed to hand the rose to Ken. So of course in shuffling the rose, the card, and the speech I dropped the rose. Uh oh. I hope that doesn’t signify bad luck. Of course, I dropped my brother’s wedding ring at his wedding so this is nothing in comparison. Still, I felt my speech was an awkward moment – but I get the gaijin free pass I hope.

In the middle of my speech

Ken entertained us all in France with his guitar playing and his singing, and I hoped that he would do so again at the wedding reception. He did, this time with a band. A few years of voice lessons have worked well for him. He could sing before, but he seemed a lot more comfortable singing this time.

Ken entertaining the crowd

The reception was closed out by the bride’s letter to her family. Then a speech by the groom, and then the groom’s family speech, one more speech by the groom, and then an exit to allow the receiving line. We watched a DVD of the ceremony (a very quick edit) and that was it. The reception was about two and a half hours only.

A quick picture together

The families together

I should note the food was superb. Everything was perfect (except for a dropped rose and Kentaro’s dad calling him Shintaro – oops). I was honored to be invited.

Doesn’t sound appetizing to me

It is 7/8/9 today. I think that’s kind of cool. I think it is pretty well established by now that I’m a bit of a geek, so it shouldn’t be a surprise that I find the sequence amusing.

Over 5 years ago I decided to give up caffeine. There was no religious reason behind it. A long time ago I vowed to never drink Coca-Cola or any caffeinated carbonated beverage after I got my orthodontics off. I didn’t get braces until I was (barely) an adult, and I figured I had enough Coke as a child to last a lifetime. With Coke out of my life, my coffee and tea habit fulfilled my caffeine need. Eventually, tired of Sunday morning headaches if I didn’t get my latte in a timely manner, I decided it probably was a good idea to quit the drug. I will admit to using coffee medicinally on a few occasions, mainly to survive a road trip without falling asleep. Jelly in a canI can promise you, if you don’t habitually drink coffee, a latte around 2:00 pm can sustain you for hours and hours. I also admit that chocolate has not been purged from my diet either, so I’m not pure. But I try.

What’s that have to do with anything? Well, I’ve started to notice a trend in Japan for Coffee Jelly drinks. Say what? That sounds and looks horrible. It sort of seems boba-esque to me. I’ve always thought boba was really silly, and was kind of like putting little choking hazards of phlegm in my drink. Sorry, but that’s what I think. Starbucks now offers Coffee Jelly Frappuccinos, and Georgia offers Jelly Coffee in a can. As I started writing this, I did a Google search and found a zillion blogs recently blogging about Coffee Jelly. It is so hard to be cutting edge, but I wonder how many of those blogs compare boba to phlegm? Huh? HUH? That’s what blogging is all about! Originality. The two blogs linked at least tell you what drinking Coffee Jelly is like. Oh, at today’s exchange rate, a Tall is about 5 bucks, a Venti is over $6.

Yum!

As for other news, I really want to get my Nara pictures on line, but now that I got my iPhone toy and joined Apple’s MobileMe, I want to create an album that I can link to from the blog. So now I have to learn the best way to export directly from Aperture into MobileMe, plus Japanese homework, plus consolidating my address books and taking advantage of the MobileMe “cloud” to sync all my devices, plus a visit from Tomo, and a 4th of July party, and researching cool Apps for the iPhone, and an almost daily need for sleep I just haven’t accomplished everything. I’m sorry, I’m trying.

Rainy season continues. We had a respite over the weekend and it has rained at some point every day this week. More predicted. And I’m sad to report that white-sweats and top-knot appear to have fully broken off communication. They sit in different sets of benches waiting for the train and even enter the train through separate doors. I’ll let my blogosphere friends know if anything changes.

Six days and counting

A heavy rainIt truly is rainy season. We’ve had six days of rain. Maybe tomorrow we will have a break. Sunday it rained cats and dogs in Tokyo, and Tomo and I had to go to Shibuya for some shopping. Tomo was trying to get his autographed Rolling Stone Lady GaGa Cover (Tomo, xoxo, Lady GaGa) framed. So he was gingerly carrying his triple wrapped GaGa, weaving through the crowd, me trying to follow as closely as possible, and umbrellas bumping the entire time. In the end, we actually found a way to frame the magazine. What was remarkable to me is the shop double matted with 8 ply mat board for the price of the frame itself. IN 20 MINUTES! That’s some good service.

I hope everyone enjoys their Fourth of July holiday? Me? I worked. Of course. Although I will make it up later in the month. I completely exhausted my patience reservoirs today, and I’m not so proud of myself. As I mentioned on Facebook, leave it to blocked Visa charges and a hard work week to get me grumpy. I snapped at the restaurant hostess who said to me in English, as if I was 3 years old, “Do you speak Japanese?” “I better read and speak Japanese, honey, ’cause your new menu doesn’t have a lick of English on it. Now seat me, I’m hungry.” That’s not really what I said. I said, “Hai!” like a 3 year old.

In other interesting Japanese news, I saw someone collapsed on the floor at the train station with a pool of vomit nearby. He was attended to and I assume it was a big night out. I always feel bad walking by situations like that but what am I going to do? Stop and help? I don’t speak the language well enough and I’m not a doctor. Since people were around I kept going. As I was walking down one of the busiest streets in Nagoya approaching my apartment, I saw a man urinating into a planter. This, however, was not a well protected planter. It was a very exposed planter. The only thing he had going for him was that it was dark. Strange things going on and the moon isn’t quite yet full tonight. No pictures for this paragraph.

One final note – I thought top-knot and white-sweats might have reconciled. They were talking slightly on Wednesday and even sat next to each other on the train. But, alas, the silence is mostly deafening. I hope they make up.

H-men, additional thoughts

grass eaters or meat eaters?Holy cow! Just by using the term “herbivore men” in my blog, I got almost 400 hits yesterday. That wasn’t my intention at all, but checking my logs there were a ton of Google searches for that phrase. I wanted people to read my blog, but I never thought one reference would create such a stir. This more than tops the Google searches for things related to the naked man festival (I won’t start to tell you some of the search topics that end up pointing to my blog). Well, as my tag says, “Be careful what you dream of, it may come up and surprise you,” (with all due respects to The Icicle Works whose lyric is lifted for my tag).

I found the CNN article interesting, as did apparently at least 380 other people who bothered to search and then click my site.

I asked my interpreter about the phenomenon described in the article. Yes, I have an interpreter. It makes me sound pretty important doesn’t it? My interpreter, who is shared with my team, is really helpful as a cultural bridge as well. She knew what I was talking about and described the following:

Recently the number of young men who are not greedy for hunting girls is increasing. Such kind of men is called as “Herbivore Men” or Sousyoku-kei-Danshi or “草食系男子”(そうしょくけいだんし) .

On the contrary, girls are impatient against such attitude by men’s. Therefore girls are more aggressive to get their mates than ever in Japan. The activity to get married which is called “Kon-Katsu” or “婚活” has become active vigorously among young ladies.

She doesn’t have to worry, she’s married and has two kids, with the oldest in high school. Considering she’s only 25, it is quite remarkable. I should also add that she reads this blog.

I got a comment from “Christopher” and I wondered who that was. I noticed his email address included the phrase “sanfranclubkid.” I didn’t think I knew folks who would include “club kid” in their address. 10 years ago, maybe I would have known someone but still it is very unlikely. That was before I checked my access logs to see that I had so many hits. I reckon Christopher was someone who found his way to my site via Google. Christopher noted:

I saw the article and I think that’s cool; be who you want to be and do what you want to do. They’re not hurting anybody, they’re just being themselves. The only unfortunate thing about that, was that “Jay” doesn’t live in SF, and I can’t be his boyfriend, cuz he’s hella cute!

First of all, thanks for the comment Christopher. I liked the article too. I agree, it’s great to be who you want to be and do what you want to do. I said it was fascinating and perplexing, but I didn’t say it was bad.

The article also comments on the socioeconomic aspects of the life of younger people in Japan. I did not originally post that portion, but it is important to understand the whole context so be sure and read the whole article.

Fukasawa said the group does not care so much about making money — a quality tied to the fact that there are fewer jobs available during the current global economic recession.

Japan’s economy recently saw its largest-ever recorded contraction and has shrunk for four straight quarters. Blue chip companies Sony, Panasonic, Toyota and Nissan all reported losses in May, and most are forecasting the same for the current fiscal year. Though still low by international standards, Japan’s reported 5 percent unemployment is the highest since 2003.

Hori agreed economics has played a role. When he finished university, “a lot of my friends were trying to work for a big company that pays well and I wasn’t interested in that. I am kind of struggling financially and my father is not very happy about it,” he said.

Starting salaries are very low right now, and I have friends working their tails off making nothing. If they were interested in raising a family, they could not afford to do so. I’m sure a contributing factor to the herbivore men is the fact that they cannot traditionally support a woman in the manner in which she expects to be supported and cannot even come close to supporting a family. That’ll take the wind out of your sails pretty quickly. I think the expectation of Japanese women is changing, but there is a lot of societal pressure (I mean a LOT) to conform to expectations. So perhaps grazing on grasses instead of hunting buffalo is a natural reaction.

grass eaters or meat eaters?Christopher did bring up another point that is part of the perplexity. “The only unfortunate thing about that, was that “Jay” doesn’t live in SF, and I can’t be his boyfriend, cuz he’s hella cute!” Christopher said. But indeed, there’s the rub. Jay doesn’t want to be your boyfriend. He’s not interested in guys. He’s just a clumsy, skinny, metrosexual with great hair and snappy clothes that doesn’t want to be bothered with a girlfriend. If you ever come to Japan, Christopher, you are going to have to recalibrate.

Herbivore men

I had never heard the term, “Herbivore men,” until today. I happen to get a link to a CNN article. I am going to quote freely from the article since I reference it above.

Author and pop culture columnist Maki Fukasawa coined the term in 2006 in a series of articles on marketing to a younger generation of Japanese men. She used it to describe some men who she said were changing the country’s ideas about just what is — and isn’t — masculine.

“In Japan, sex is translated as ‘relationship in flesh,'” she said, “so I named those boys ‘herbivorous boys’ since they are not interested in flesh.”

Typically, “herbivore men” are in their 20s and 30s, and believe that friendship without sex can exist between men and women, Fukasawa said.

The term has become a buzzword in Japan. Many people in Tokyo’s Harajuku neighborhood were familiar with “herbivore men” — and had opinions about them.

Shigeyuki Nagayama said such men were not eager to find girlfriends and tend to be clumsy in love, and he admitted he seemed to fit the mold himself.

“My father always asks me if I got a girlfriend. He tells me I’m no good because I can’t get a girlfriend.”

Takahito Kaji, 21, said he has been told he is “totally herbivorous.”

“Herbivorous boys are fragile, do not have a stocky body — skinny.”

Fukasawa said Japanese men from the baby boomer generation were typically aggressive and proactive when it came to romance and sex. But as a result of growing up during Japan’s troubled economy in the 1990s, their children’s generation was not as assertive and goal-oriented. Their outlook came, in part, from seeing their fathers’ model of masculinity falter even as Japanese women gained more lifestyle options.

Former CNN intern Junichiro Hori, a self-described herbivore, said the idea goes beyond looks and attitudes toward sex.

“Some guys still try to be manly and try to be like strong and stuff, but you know personally I’m not afraid to show my vulnerability because being vulnerable or being sensitive is not a weakness.”

Older generations of Japanese men are not happy about the changes. At a bar frequented by businessmen after work, one man said: “You need to be carnivorous when you make decisions in your life. You should be proactive, not passive.”

This is directly related to my comments in a previous post where I said, “Japan is a land of crazy fashions. This is the land of tight T-shirts with fancy, sparkly cursive writing words, dyed hair, hair clips, and extremely manicured eyebrows. And those are just the boys!” It is extremely true, and really throws off the whole sense of masculine / feminine, straight / gay that Americans and Europeans come to expect.  I find it fascinating and perplexing and definitely makes people watching more interesting.  I think I’ve seem more macho looking guys in Ni-chome compared to the herbivores elsewhere.  Apparently the gay community is taking a more masculine approach to attraction.