Killing time in Tokyo – musings on mixed use developments

I’m sitting in a Starbucks in Akasaka in Tokyo, and have been for a while, killing time while Tomo guides Chaka Khan’s band members through a flea market, Ometesando, and Harajaku. This wasn’t really part of the weekend plan but I knew it could be a possibility. I have a good book to read, Michael Chabon’s, “Gentlemen of the Road.” It has been a very long time since I’ve had to actually use a dictionary to look up words while reading, but this is one of those books. I find it refreshing actually, to relearn words. For example, one page contains the words ostler, caravansary, mezair, caprioles. All words I don’t know off the top of my head. Good thing for online dictionaries when you are sitting in a Starbucks armed only with a BlackBerry (I still am not happy carrying a “BlechBerry” but it does serve a purpose at times).

It is a little strange to be sitting in this particular Starbucks, because I spent many Sunday mornings here when I’ve been in Tokyo on business trips as this is the location of the preferred hotel of my colleague who was in charge of the trip. I stayed in a business hotel just down the street last night and discovered more areas and developments that I had not seen in all the previous times I had been here.

I definitely feel much more at home in Tokyo compared to Nagoya. I can’t decide though whether I love or hate the multiple mixed-use developments of Tokyo. There’s Roppongi Hills (hate), Tokyo Midtown, Ark Hills, Izumi Garden, and Shiroyama Garden to name a few all in this general area. You can move from one to the other, and they have shops, restaurants, offices, apartments, hotels, everything. Is that good? Is that bad? I really don’t know. But it feels like Tokyo to me.

Well, Tomo called and he’s ditching the band so it is time to meet.

Tokyo Nobody, well Almost Nobody

They say you have to suffer for your art. And while it is pretentious to call my photos art, I did have an idea for some photos today (today being January 1st when this was written, not the day it was actually posted). I wanted to photograph usually very busy Tokyo spaces without people. Since it is a big holiday and all the shops are closed (I thought) today was the day to do it. It isn’t an original idea, it’s been done before with great success in the book “Tokyo Nobody.” I had planned on getting up around 6:00 am or so to catch a 6:30 am shuttle bus from where I was staying to Shinagawa Station. But, you know, I was up late last night and decided to set my alarm for 7:30 am. I ended up catching the 8:30 am shuttle bus.

By regular standards, Tokyo was incredibly empty. But I had to time it well to minimize the number of people in the frame. I went to Shinagawa, Shibuya, and Shinjuku. If you know Tokyo, you’ll recognize that these places are quite empty. If you don’t know Tokyo, well, maybe the pictures are interesting.

Here’s Shinagawa Station, quiet for a Thursday morning.

Isetan side of Shinagawa Station, January 1, 2009

Main Passageway, Shinagawa Station, January 1, 2009

 

At the Hachiko exit of Shibuya Station, there were few people. Most were drunk and boisterous, likely out clubbing all night.

Looking Towards Shibuya Station Hachiko Exit, January 1, 2009

 

Around the statue of Hachiko is a very famous meeting spot. At 9:00 am on New Year’s Day, it wasn’t so crowded.

Hachiko Sculpture, Shibuya Station, January 1, 2009

 

And the scramble, the crazy free-for-all crosswalk, was remarkably manageable.

Orderly Crossing at Shibuya, January 1, 2009

 

More than 1 million people usually pass through Shinjuku Station on a single day. Not on the 1st.

Easy Walking at Shinjuku Station, January 1, 2009

 

The corridor, at 9:30 am, is clear.

Empty Corridor at 9:30 am, Shinjuku Station, January 1, 2009

 

Even the streets around Shinjuku, usually bumper-to-bumper when the streets are out, were free flowing. If, that is, there was something to flow.

Empty Street Shinjuku, January 1, 2009

 

I often was one of many people waiting at Studio Alta under the giant screen to meet someone. I’ve never seen the screen turned off, or so few people meeting.

Meeting Spot, Shinjuku, January 1, 2009

 

 

 

One thing that surprised me was to see people lining up at Yodobashi Camera in Shinjuku. And then I saw people lined up at Bic Camera. I think they were lined up for “grab bags” of some type. It seemed you knew the basic contents but didn’t know the details. As Kevin and I decided, it seems like a great way for stores to get rid of junk. It is called fukubukuro.

Lining up at Yodobashi.

Shinjuku Yodobashi Camera, January 1, 2009

Shinjuku Yodobashi Camera, January 1, 2009

 

 

The same thing happening at Bic Camera.

Shinjuku Bic Camera, January 1, 2009

Shinjuku Bic Camera, January 1, 2009

Tokyo Tower

I was reading the International Herald Tribune and found an interesting article on Tokyo Tower. In it, a professor emeritus of history at Tokyo’s Hitotsubashi University, Masanori Nakamura, states, “Tokyo Tower stood for a dream of the future, but that dream is gone. Tokyo Tower offers no more dreams, just as Japan has no more dreams.” Ouch! I’m not sure if I completely disagree, but I don’t completely agree either.

This article, coupled with a request to include more pictures, made me think about some Tokyo Tower pictures I’ve had sitting around in my archives.

A color shot of Tokyo Tower from the base

 

Climbing the tower to the first observatory level,

Inside the structure

 

The elevator is the very idea of modern,

The elevator to the next level

 

The view from the top is impressive,

The roads make a star shape

 

 

I also had some black and white pictures I shot on film (remember film?) last year.

An uninspired tower photo,

The tower, in black and white

 

A parking area under the tower for tour buses,

Bus parking

 

Resting quietly. Everyone else is inside,

Resting

 

There is a mini-amusement park on the way up. Why?

A very small merry-go-round

 

The elves are a little scary.

Why?

 

This character must be dangerous as it is fenced in. Is this Thomas?

Caution:  Character may bite

 

Of course, Pikachu is obligatory.

A very large Pikachu.

 

 

Finally, who can resist their lovable mascots? You be the judge of what they look like. I have my ideas. Visit the Tokyo Tower website here to learn about the hobbies of the Noppon twins (the mascots are twin brothers – who knows why).

Will children have long term issues after meeting these mascots?

Economic woes

I think I’ve complained a lot, both here and on Facebook, that I seem to spend money as if it is Monopoly money. I read today on the Telegraph website that Nagoya is the 4th most expensive city in the world for an expat, just behind Yokohama, then Tokyo, then Luanda in Angola. Yup, an African city tops the list, somewhat anomalously due to unavailability of western products used in the index calculation. I think one picture spells it out best (snapshot from the IHT business section).

The dollar versus yen, YTD

The yen is strong, the dollar is weak. The article quotes Lee Quane, general manager Asia at ECA International, “Global economic events mean that throughout the world exchange rates are fluctuating and, in many cases, dramatically. Depending on their salary calculation methodology, many companies will have to pay particularly close attention to these movements in order to apply appropriate cost of living indices to the remuneration packages of their international assignees.” I am fortunate that my remuneration (remuneration: money paid for work or a service) indeed accounts for goods and services differentials. So don’t feel bad for me. The prices I pay for things continue to shock me (although I numb pretty quickly) but I am not losing money. I am lucky that my company treats their expats fairly.

The world economy is pretty scary. I think I worry more now about job stability than I ever did in the past. It must be a sign of the times. Or of my age.

Happy Holidays Everyone!

I hope everyone is having a nice holiday. I’m relaxed right now – it was a tough week at work with nearly all the office gone. I stayed in Nagoya and it was work as usual for Japan but quiet in the States. I was kept hopping. I am off until January 5th and I will stay in Japan. I hope to recharge in this time, and I think that I will be able to do so. I have started to wind down quite successfully.

I am sorry that my blog hasn’t been updated for a while. I’ve had some good ideas that have entered my head and just as quickly exited. So just be aware that you are going to miss some great material!

Christmas in Japan

Christmas is a much different experience in Japan than in the US. For those who have spent much time in Japan, you know that Christmas is really a “date night.” The lights and decorations and shopping are all very romantic. The idea for Christmas is to have a nice dinner with your significant other on Christmas eve, go to a hotel, maybe exchange a gift, and, well, do whatever couples do when they go to a hotel together (what they do could be a function of the amount of alcohol consumed at dinner).

In Japan, there really isn’t really as much public displays of affection as there can be in other countries. Couples, unless they are a foreigner and a native, tend to be very hands-off in public (mixed race couples – gaijin / nihonjin – tend to be much more touchy-feely as though one or the other is showing off the prize that they have found). Christmas eve, after an 11 hour day at work, I started heading home. At the train stations and during transitions to trains I noticed a LOT more hand holding than I’d normally see. Maybe I was just paying more attention and was sensitive to what I thought Christmas Eve should be in Japan, or maybe I was really seeing something. I mentioned it to a Japanese colleague the next day and she agreed with me. So that’s what Christmas means to couples in Japan.

There is also a gift giving tradition that has been introduced in Japan. It probably was a campaign instituted by the government to encourage people to spend money. Apparently it has worked since savings rates have toppled over the past years. In spite of the impending doom, all the shopping, expensive stores, and consumption in Japan, the approximately 25% savings rate on disposable income is still relatively high. Although it is hard to get a consistent story, and the number varies widely [UPDATE: I got a comment from the blog I referenced stating, “The 25% or so savings rate is for households with a salaried worker as head of household. With about 35% of the workforce now on contract employment status, such figures can be very misleading.” Thanks for the explanation – that makes sense to me]. I guess I talked about the gift giving tradition earlier in my blog.

One thing that I didn’t know was that there is also an amazing tradition that is COMPLETELY FABRICATED for Japanese consumption. You see, it is a Christmas tradition to eat Kentucky Fried Chicken in Japan.

KFC in Japan

Honest to blog – Christmas Kentucky Fried Chicken. My translator agreed that it is a tradition. Some KFCs here close so they can prepare enough chicken for Christmas. There are security guards directing traffic at popular stores. Who started this tradition? I don’t know. One “source” says it started soon after the first store was opened in Nagoya in 1970. Recall this is a blog, not a source of scholarly research. Anyway, the Colonel is loved for Christmas.

A sampling of KFC options

In doing my “research” I discovered that Harland Sanders (the Colonel) was born and raised in Henryville, Indiana. How is that for a Hoosier contribution to the entire world? I also heard a story growing up that my Dad met the Colonel when he (my Dad, that is) was a student at Purdue. The Colonel was giving a talk at the school. My Dad’s major was Home Economics – predating the Restaurant, Hotel, and Institutional Management school that now exists. My Dad was manning the cloak room. The Colonel offered him a tip and my Dad refused it, saying they were not allowed to be tipped. So the Colonel said he would just put the quarter (or dime or whatever the going rate was in the late 50s) and my Dad could watch it grow. Apparently by the end of the night my Dad had a good collection sitting on the counter. I guess the Colonel knew a thing or two about business. I don’t know if that story is the equivalent of a family urban legend, hyperbole grown into truth, or actually the truth. I’d like to believe it though, because it is a good story!

As I said, I worked on Christmas Day. My manager (who was back in the States and who I was covering for…) suggested that I should make Christmas Day a short day if I had to even go to work at all. I told him that if I have to stay in Japan to cover I’d much rather work and interact with people and do the job I was there to do than sit at home by myself and mope because I was alone and away from my family for the first time EVER in my life. I think he got the point. Christmas is just another day, trains run regular schedule, shops are open, restaurants areopen, and people go to work. So did I.

So what did I do? I worked – quite a bit actually. Things were busy in the office as I said, especially since I was covering for a lot of people. As part of our drive for service to the community here in Japan, we adopted an orphanage for Christmas. We got every child in the orphanage winter coats, and the kids made some pretty specific requests. It was a good thing to do. I chose to get coats for two high school boys. Although I have three nieces, I’m not good buying clothes for girls over the age of 2. The boys gave pictures of the type of coats they wanted and I thought I’d go to UNIQLO because they have good clothes for a cheap price (US site is here). It is the only store where I can get something that fits me. Luckily, the coats the kids picked out were from UNIQLO so I could get them exactly what they wanted. I wonder how often orphans actually get what they want? The orphanage is pretty small so only two representatives from each site went to distribute the coats. Also, pictures could not be taken because it would compromise the safety of some of the kids (that is really sad). Apparently one of the boys was extremely grateful to receive the coat that he got from me, and continually thanked the folks there representing our team.

Does this blog seem rambling to you today? Why would I go tell the orphanage story? To show our team’s humanitarian spirit to inspire you to do the same? To show what a great and giving guy I am? Probably a little of both. But really, because I liked the coat one of the kids picked out so much that I wanted it for myself too! So on Christmas Day I hightailed it to UNIQLO and bought a new winter coat (on sale for 33% off I might add). Here’s the cool coat below.

My new coat

I haven’t had a coat with fur on the hood since I was about 7 years old. The fur is removable, by the way, as is the hood. It is a down coat, but I think quite honestly that my wool coat is warmer because the wool itself doesn’t feel as cold to the touch as the polyester / nylon outer shell of this coat. Maybe it just seems colder because it has gotten a lot colder lately in Japan.

After shopping I had a bowl of traditional Christmas Chili Con Carne at Soup Stock Tokyo.

It tastes better than it looks

I promise you, Christmas chili will be the next big Christmas tradition after KFC becomes passé. I had to run back to Nagoya Station, get a shinkansen ticket to come to Tokyo for the weekend, and then go home. Unfortunately, I spent the rest of the night wrestling with my Mac, Photoshop, and printer because printing stopped working. I was unsuccessful – that’s a project for another day.

忘年会

There is another tradition in Japan that I experienced – that is to have a “forget the year party”, (bounenkai, 忘年会). Basically, it is a go out and eat izakaya and get plastered with your colleagues. My japanese got very good by the end of the night and I think my Japanese colleague’s english got a lot better too. Funny how that works. It was fun.