Killing time in Tokyo – musings on mixed use developments

I’m sitting in a Starbucks in Akasaka in Tokyo, and have been for a while, killing time while Tomo guides Chaka Khan’s band members through a flea market, Ometesando, and Harajaku. This wasn’t really part of the weekend plan but I knew it could be a possibility. I have a good book to read, Michael Chabon’s, “Gentlemen of the Road.” It has been a very long time since I’ve had to actually use a dictionary to look up words while reading, but this is one of those books. I find it refreshing actually, to relearn words. For example, one page contains the words ostler, caravansary, mezair, caprioles. All words I don’t know off the top of my head. Good thing for online dictionaries when you are sitting in a Starbucks armed only with a BlackBerry (I still am not happy carrying a “BlechBerry” but it does serve a purpose at times).

It is a little strange to be sitting in this particular Starbucks, because I spent many Sunday mornings here when I’ve been in Tokyo on business trips as this is the location of the preferred hotel of my colleague who was in charge of the trip. I stayed in a business hotel just down the street last night and discovered more areas and developments that I had not seen in all the previous times I had been here.

I definitely feel much more at home in Tokyo compared to Nagoya. I can’t decide though whether I love or hate the multiple mixed-use developments of Tokyo. There’s Roppongi Hills (hate), Tokyo Midtown, Ark Hills, Izumi Garden, and Shiroyama Garden to name a few all in this general area. You can move from one to the other, and they have shops, restaurants, offices, apartments, hotels, everything. Is that good? Is that bad? I really don’t know. But it feels like Tokyo to me.

Well, Tomo called and he’s ditching the band so it is time to meet.

Tsunami advisory

I happened to turn on the TV this morning to see if there was anything interesting on the tube (although I shouldn’t use “the tube” anymore because there are no tubes in modern TVs). I guess I’m just kind of stalling / denying that I have to work tomorrow. I’m in total chill mode. I rarely watch TV in Japan because, well, I don’t understand it. I know that watching TV is a good way to learn a language but I feel like a Peanuts character listening to an adult.

When I turned on the TV I noticed a map of Japan with yellow highlights on the south facing coast line. I knew there was an earthquake in Indonesia, so I wondered if it was a tsunami warning. My prefecture is on the coast, but I am nowhere near the coast. However, I was curious. I went to the Japan Meteorological Agency website and sure enough, there was a tsunami advisory.

Tsunami advisory

I’m not trying to make a tsunami sound exciting. It isn’t like a snow storm or something. As a matter of fact, I got a very stressing text message in 2004 from a good friend who was on Phi Phi island in Thailand when the tsunami hit (by the way, my friend started a charity as a response to the disaster). However, part of this blog is to report what is going on here.

Since the time I’ve discovered this tsunami advisory and started this entry, the tsunami has already arrived. It appears to have been between 10 to 20 centimeters.

Oops, I didn’t mean to do that

I got to go to Tokyo today. The astute reader of this blog knows that I was just IN Tokyo. So why did I go again today? Last night I was bouncing down the tracks in the shinkansen (if airplanes were as rough as the train everybody would freak out), looking forward to being in my apartment and my bed. I had cleaned it going to Tokyo, had fresh sheets waiting for me on my own bed, and I was arriving late enough that maybe I’d have just enough time to update my blog just before going to sleep.

For some reason, about 30 minutes outside of Nagoya, I thought to check my pocket for my apartment key. Of course, I knew it wasn’t there, because why else would I check? I was right, it wasn’t there. Oh sh*t. I knew exactly where it was, it was sitting on a bookshelf at Kevin and Sei’s beautiful condo in Tokyo. I gave Kevin a confirmation call and indeed he confirmed it was there.

Now what? It is a holiday weekend, I’m keyless, and my Japanese sucks. I called the “emergency” line for my relocation service. It turns out the “emergency” line is the president’s line and he was in New Zealand. I’m not sure what time it was there, but in retrospect I think it was a pretty inconvenient time to call. By this time it was around 11:00 pm in Nagoya. He thought my chances were slim that I’d be able to get in that night. He called one of his employees to check things out.

In the meantime there were no more reasonable trains back to Tokyo, no colleagues in town, and no key. What could I do? I figured I had to stay in a hotel. It was also becoming apparent that the emergency number wasn’t really going to be effective. I resigned myself to spending the night in a hotel and then taking the train BACK to Tokyo this morning to pick up my key and then BACK to Nagoya to finally be home.

I was mad at myself, and bummed about the cost hit for my boneheaded move. Since I spent so much time at the Marriott earlier this year, I am Platinum Elite and have gobs of points so I thought I’d just take the elevator from the train station to the lobby and check in. Hopefully.

When I got to the front desk I tried to explain the situation. I looked pretty scraggly actually, I hadn’t shaved that morning and now it was 11:00 pm or later. The front desk woman said, “Oh, you can’t just walk in and use points. You have to call to make a reservation.” I said, “Are you going to make me play this game?” I gave them my Platinum Elite card (by the way, to my knowledge, there is no next higher level at Marriott) and her colleague started punching it in. I asked, “What is the normal rate?” “22,000 yen [about $240].” Then they saw who I worked for. She promptly said, “With your corporate discount you can get the room for 15,000 yen [about $165].” In the meantime, her colleague’s eyes got a little big. I think he saw how many days I had stayed there this year (60) and also realized that my company has spent an ungodly sum of money at the hotel this year. I would hate to guess how much. I said, “Look [by the way, if I ever start a sentence with ‘look’ – watch out], I’m either staying here for free or I’m going to a cheap business hotel. I don’t need to pay $150 for one night when I locked myself out of my apartment.” Her colleague said, “Just a moment” and they had a group huddle over in the corner with a manager-type. It was determined at that point that I COULD stay there on points and I was most welcome. I waited a little while longer for a miracle to happen. Unfortunately, no miracle so I checked in. Actually, I’m glad to save the miracles for something for deserving.

I was pretty wound up at that point. Also, the relocation service person who got the call to help me noted that tickets would be really hard to get in the morning. Great. I said, “Well I can always go Green Car (first class) if necessary.” Then I looked at my wallet – I had only 23,000 yen – and determined that, no, I didn’t have enough money to go green car. Sigh.

I went online (turns out internet is free now at the hotel), and checked the train schedule. I could take the 6:50 am train to Shinagawa, arriving at 8:19 am. Kevin agreed to meet me at the station and hand over my key. I could then run to Starbucks, get something to eat, and catch the 8:37 am train back to Nagoya and be back by 10:13 am with most of my day ahead of me.

I got up at 6:00 am, rolled into some clothes, brushed my teeth, managed my bedhead and scrambled to the train station. I got tickets no problem but only aisle seats were available on the train to Tokyo. That meant it was pretty full. After I bought my ticket I watched the monitors showing ticket availability approaching sold out. Wow.

There’s not much more to report. I sat on a train, met Kevin as planned, got a scone and hot chocolate at Starbucks in Shinagawa, got on the train, and headed back to Nagoya. Mt. Fuji was beautiful. That’s about it. My iTouch battery, while low, survived the trip. When I got back to Nagoya, I checked the monitors for Tokyo tickets. Every train on the monitor was sold out (all classes). I’m glad I got up early.

Sorry, no photos to accompany this little tale. I’m just glad I was able to successfully get in my apartment with only a little inconvenience and expenditure.

Bonehead.

Tokyo Nobody, well Almost Nobody

They say you have to suffer for your art. And while it is pretentious to call my photos art, I did have an idea for some photos today (today being January 1st when this was written, not the day it was actually posted). I wanted to photograph usually very busy Tokyo spaces without people. Since it is a big holiday and all the shops are closed (I thought) today was the day to do it. It isn’t an original idea, it’s been done before with great success in the book “Tokyo Nobody.” I had planned on getting up around 6:00 am or so to catch a 6:30 am shuttle bus from where I was staying to Shinagawa Station. But, you know, I was up late last night and decided to set my alarm for 7:30 am. I ended up catching the 8:30 am shuttle bus.

By regular standards, Tokyo was incredibly empty. But I had to time it well to minimize the number of people in the frame. I went to Shinagawa, Shibuya, and Shinjuku. If you know Tokyo, you’ll recognize that these places are quite empty. If you don’t know Tokyo, well, maybe the pictures are interesting.

Here’s Shinagawa Station, quiet for a Thursday morning.

Isetan side of Shinagawa Station, January 1, 2009

Main Passageway, Shinagawa Station, January 1, 2009

 

At the Hachiko exit of Shibuya Station, there were few people. Most were drunk and boisterous, likely out clubbing all night.

Looking Towards Shibuya Station Hachiko Exit, January 1, 2009

 

Around the statue of Hachiko is a very famous meeting spot. At 9:00 am on New Year’s Day, it wasn’t so crowded.

Hachiko Sculpture, Shibuya Station, January 1, 2009

 

And the scramble, the crazy free-for-all crosswalk, was remarkably manageable.

Orderly Crossing at Shibuya, January 1, 2009

 

More than 1 million people usually pass through Shinjuku Station on a single day. Not on the 1st.

Easy Walking at Shinjuku Station, January 1, 2009

 

The corridor, at 9:30 am, is clear.

Empty Corridor at 9:30 am, Shinjuku Station, January 1, 2009

 

Even the streets around Shinjuku, usually bumper-to-bumper when the streets are out, were free flowing. If, that is, there was something to flow.

Empty Street Shinjuku, January 1, 2009

 

I often was one of many people waiting at Studio Alta under the giant screen to meet someone. I’ve never seen the screen turned off, or so few people meeting.

Meeting Spot, Shinjuku, January 1, 2009

 

 

 

One thing that surprised me was to see people lining up at Yodobashi Camera in Shinjuku. And then I saw people lined up at Bic Camera. I think they were lined up for “grab bags” of some type. It seemed you knew the basic contents but didn’t know the details. As Kevin and I decided, it seems like a great way for stores to get rid of junk. It is called fukubukuro.

Lining up at Yodobashi.

Shinjuku Yodobashi Camera, January 1, 2009

Shinjuku Yodobashi Camera, January 1, 2009

 

 

The same thing happening at Bic Camera.

Shinjuku Bic Camera, January 1, 2009

Shinjuku Bic Camera, January 1, 2009

Tokyo Tower

I was reading the International Herald Tribune and found an interesting article on Tokyo Tower. In it, a professor emeritus of history at Tokyo’s Hitotsubashi University, Masanori Nakamura, states, “Tokyo Tower stood for a dream of the future, but that dream is gone. Tokyo Tower offers no more dreams, just as Japan has no more dreams.” Ouch! I’m not sure if I completely disagree, but I don’t completely agree either.

This article, coupled with a request to include more pictures, made me think about some Tokyo Tower pictures I’ve had sitting around in my archives.

A color shot of Tokyo Tower from the base

 

Climbing the tower to the first observatory level,

Inside the structure

 

The elevator is the very idea of modern,

The elevator to the next level

 

The view from the top is impressive,

The roads make a star shape

 

 

I also had some black and white pictures I shot on film (remember film?) last year.

An uninspired tower photo,

The tower, in black and white

 

A parking area under the tower for tour buses,

Bus parking

 

Resting quietly. Everyone else is inside,

Resting

 

There is a mini-amusement park on the way up. Why?

A very small merry-go-round

 

The elves are a little scary.

Why?

 

This character must be dangerous as it is fenced in. Is this Thomas?

Caution:  Character may bite

 

Of course, Pikachu is obligatory.

A very large Pikachu.

 

 

Finally, who can resist their lovable mascots? You be the judge of what they look like. I have my ideas. Visit the Tokyo Tower website here to learn about the hobbies of the Noppon twins (the mascots are twin brothers – who knows why).

Will children have long term issues after meeting these mascots?